Domaine Georges Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras, 2004

Roumier is one of the most quietly revered names in all of Burgundy—a family domaine whose Chambolle-Musigny bottlings are dependable in a way few estates can match. Les Cras is a Premier Cru in the commune of Chambolle-Musigny, and it's the muscular outlier here: the parcel sits high against the hillside on chalky, limestone-rich marl, which gives a wine with firmer tannins and more structure than the famously perfumed, lacy Chambolle norm. This is Pinot Noir with smoky, savory edges and real backbone. The 2004 is fully mature now, so pour it for the secondary, earthy complexity that comes with age rather than primary fruit. Decant and serve.