Felsina, Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, 2006

No wine has more range than great Chianti Classico, and Felsina's are supreme examples, terroir-driven yet utterly drinkable. Rancia is the estate's celebrated single-vineyard Riserva, from an amphitheater-shaped site in Castelnuovo Berardenga whose limestone-and-slate soils give menthol and spice for lift over a core of leather, tobacco, and minerality. Bottlings like this can age 20 years and beyond. This back-vintage 2006, from a well-regarded Tuscan year, is now fully mature and showing the savory, tertiary complexity that makes old Sangiovese so compelling. Decant and serve with a serious meal.