Aldo Conterno, Barolo Vigna Cicala', 1996

Aldo Conterno is one of the towering names of traditional Barolo, and Vigna Cicala is his great cru, a single parcel in the famed Bussia amphitheater of Monforte d'Alba known for deep, structured Nebbiolo. The 1996 came from a classic, firm-structured vintage built for the long haul, and from a private cellar it now sits in a lovely spot: still holding fruit but layered with the dried-flower, tar and earth complexity that defines mature Barolo. There's likely real life left here for patient drinkers. Decant generously and pour it with something substantial.