Bernard Levet, Cote-Rotie La Chavaroche, 2017

Levet's La Chavaroche comes from a steep 1.2-hectare parcel on the Cote Brune, where granite and schist soils give the Syrah its dark, savory, ferrous character. This is unapologetically traditional Cote-Rotie: whole-cluster fermentation, very little new oak, and 30 to 36 months in old barrels before release, a recipe the family has held to since 1936. The 2017 came from a warm, dry growing season, so this vintage shows riper, plusher fruit and slightly softer tannins than the cooler years, making it a touch more generous in its youth. It still has the structure to age, but you can get into it sooner. Decant an hour ahead.