Bodegas Barbadillo, Manzanilla En Rama 'Salicornia', NV

One of the first certified-organic bottlings from the region, this feels featherweight and crisp, more like a coastal white wine than a fortified and long-aged one. Salicornia is Spanish and Latin name for samphire, a saline plant strongly linked to the marshes and the coast of Cadiz.