Cappellano, Barolo Pie Franco, 2014

There is no Barolo quite like Cappellano's Pie Franco. The late, iconoclastic Teobaldo Cappellano planted Nebbiolo on its own ungrafted roots ("pie franco") in the Gabutti section of the Otin Fiorin vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba, against all conventional wisdom about phylloxera; today his son Augusto carries the work forward. Made traditionally with native yeasts and long aging in old botti, it's one of Piedmont's most coveted bottles. The 2014, from a cooler, more delicate vintage, leans toward elegance and perfume.