Castell'in Villa, Chianti Classico Riserva, 2001

Castell'in Villa is a standard-bearer for fine, traditionally made Chianti Classico, run by a thoughtful, philosophical winemaker who has never chased fashion. This is the Riserva from 2001, a strong Tuscan vintage, and from a private cellar it now drinks with graceful maturity, the bright Sangiovese acidity intact while the fruit turns to dried cherry and the savory, leathery notes of age come forward. It's a wonderful argument for what classic Chianti becomes with time. Decant and pour with a Tuscan table.