Domaine de Marcoux, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes, 2004

Here's what patience buys you. Domaine de Marcoux, run by the Armenier sisters, was an early adopter of biodynamic practices in the southern Rhone (certified organic since 1991; biodynamic in practice, not Demeter-certified) and has long been one of the appellation's benchmark estates, farming organically since 1991. Their Vieilles Vignes comes from the oldest Grenache vines on the property, and the classically styled 2004 has now had two decades to unwind. The primary fruit has given way to black truffle, cherry, and Provencal herbs, the tannins have gone soft and silky, and the whole thing drinks with mineral, mature grace. This is ready right now, with enough backbone to hold for years more.