Domaine du Collier, Saumur-Champigny Charpentrie Rouge, 2013

Antoine Foucault grew up at Clos Rougeard, the most legendary address in Saumur, learning from his father Charly before striking out to found Domaine du Collier in 1999. The Charpentrie Rouge is old-vine Cabernet Franc from one of the estate's prize lieux-dits, farmed organically and made with the same low-intervention rigor as his famous family: wild yeast, long aging without racking, minimal sulfur. Production is tiny. This bottle has a decade-plus of age on it, which serious Saumur Cabernet Franc rewards, softening the structure and pushing the wine toward its savory, tobacco-and-graphite maturity. A rare chance to drink one of the Loire's great names.