Domaine Isabel Ferrando, Chateauneuf du Pape Colombis, 2016

Isabel Ferrando makes Chateauneuf that trades power for purity, and Colombis is her most distinctive cuvee — the one bottling she doesn't draw from her home Les Serres vineyard. It's pure old-vine Grenache, from north-facing parcels averaging around eighty years of age, with plots leaning on limestone and sand rather than the region's famous heat-trapping galets. That cooler, stonier foundation gives a fresher, more elegant Chateauneuf than the appellation's usual muscle. Whole-cluster fermented and raised in neutral vessels and amphora, it's about lift and silk, not weight. The 2016, from a great structured vintage, is easing into a mature window that should hold for years.