Dominique Lafon, Beaune 1er Cru Rouge Les Epenottes, 2017

This is the red Burgundy from one of the genre's true masters, Dominique Lafon, made under his eponymous label from the Premier Cru Les Epenottes on the southern flank of Beaune. The site is prized for finesse over muscle, and Lafon's gentle, transparent hand draws out a Pinot Noir of perfume and silk. The warm 2017 vintage produced reds that are open and giving, with ripe red fruit framed by Beaune's signature elegance. It is delicious already but has the balance to hold a few years. Decant for an hour and serve a touch below room temperature.