Eyrie, Pinot Noir Daphne Vineyard, 2016

Daphne sits near the crest of the Dundee Hills, one of Eyrie's highest and coolest sites, where the topsoil runs less than a foot deep over volcanic bedrock and the vines grow small and gnarled—almost bonsai. That struggle shows up in the glass as tension and precision. Named for a family friend and vinified exactly like every Eyrie Pinot—native yeast, small vessels, barely any new oak—it's the most structured and mineral of the estate's reds. This is Oregon Pinot in its ethereal, high-toned register, the style the Letts have championed for two generations. If you want single-vineyard Willamette with a spine, start here.