Felsina, Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, 2007

No wine has more range than great Chianti Classico, and Felsina's are supreme examples, terroir-driven yet utterly drinkable. Rancia is the estate's celebrated single-vineyard Riserva, from an amphitheater-shaped site in Castelnuovo Berardenga whose limestone-and-slate soils lend menthol and spice for lift over leather, tobacco, and minerality. These wines routinely age 20 years and beyond. This back-vintage 2007 is now mature, with the savory, tertiary complexity that rewards patience with old Sangiovese. Decant and pour it alongside a hearty meal.