Flavio Roddolo, Dolcetto d'Alba, 2011

Flavio Roddolo is one of Piedmont's great under-the-radar traditionalists, a grower whose idiosyncratic, slow-aged wines we've championed for years. His Dolcetto d'Alba is not the cheerful early-drinker the grape usually delivers; Roddolo holds his wines back and they age far longer than almost anyone else's Dolcetto. This 2011, from a warm vintage, has had over a decade to settle, and it's drinking in a savory, mature register most people never get to see from this grape. A genuine curiosity for Piedmont lovers, and ready right now.