Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie, 2017

Celine Fontaine makes some of Chassagne-Montrachet's most electric white Burgundies, all high acidity, gunflint, and mineral cut, and La Maltroie is one of the village's benchmark premier crus. Sitting on stony clay near the village, it delivers the richness and depth Chassagne is famous for, framed by the firm acidity that keeps these whites so alive. The 2017 vintage gave whites with real ripeness but fresher, more natural acidity than the vintage before, making this both approachable and genuinely ageworthy. Farming here is organic in spirit, with native yeasts and just a whisper of oak. Serious Chardonnay for people who love tension in their whites.