Fratelli Alessandria, Barolo Gramolere, 2011

Alessandria's Gramolere from Monforte d'Alba, in a 2011 vintage that turned out ripe, fruity and approachable, so this one drinks more openly than the firmer 2010. This is the estate's secret weapon, a cru that brings Monforte backbone to a producer better known for the satin elegance of Verduno. Fratelli Alessandria works traditionally, with transparency to site and no heavy hand. At well over a decade old the fruit has mellowed into a savory, mature register. A friendly, ready-now Barolo from one of Piedmont's under-the-radar names.