Fratelli Alessandria, Barolo Monvigliero, 2006

Verduno's legendary Monvigliero hillside made its name through Burlotto, but Fratelli Alessandria is the village's other great reference, and their take on this south-facing grand-cru-in-all-but-name is all clarity, perfume, and poise. This is a fully mature 2006, a classic, powerfully structured Barolo vintage now at twenty years old, its once-firm tannins softened and integrated while the wine holds its backbone. Aged the traditional way in large cask, it shows the red-fruited, rose-scented, transparent-to-site voice that makes Verduno so beloved by collectors. This is Nebbiolo at the point where structure gives way to grace. A resolved, aromatic Barolo ready for the table now.