Giuseppe Cortese, Barbaresco Rabaja, 2004

Rabaja is one of Barbaresco's great crus, and the Cortese family has farmed a chunk of it for generations from their cellar right in the heart of the vineyard. This is old-school, traditional Barbaresco: Nebbiolo grown on the prized marl-limestone slopes of Rabaja, vinified without flash or excess oak. The 2004 was a celebrated, classic vintage in the Langhe, and at this stage the wine is moving into its mature, savory window. Decant it and give it some air to show its full perfume. A lovely bottle for the patient drinker.