Louis Michel, Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles, 2014
Louis Michel walked away from oak barrels decades ago, and Chablis has never sounded so clearly. Everything here—entry-level through grand cru—sees nothing but stainless steel, so what you taste is pure Kimmeridgian limestone and nothing borrowed from a barrel. Grenouilles is the payoff: one of the seven grand crus and among the smallest, a rare parcel low on the grand cru slope, right beside the Serein river. The 2014 was an excellent, tightly wound Chablis vintage, and a dozen years on, this grand cru has unwound into its stride—still cut with that hallmark steely tension but now layered with the honeyed depth that only time gives white Burgundy. A benchmark for what unadorned Chablis can be.
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Description
Louis Michel walked away from oak barrels decades ago, and Chablis has never sounded so clearly. Everything here—entry-level through grand cru—sees nothing but stainless steel, so what you taste is pure Kimmeridgian limestone and nothing borrowed from a barrel. Grenouilles is the payoff: one of the seven grand crus and among the smallest, a rare parcel low on the grand cru slope, right beside the Serein river. The 2014 was an excellent, tightly wound Chablis vintage, and a dozen years on, this grand cru has unwound into its stride—still cut with that hallmark steely tension but now layered with the honeyed depth that only time gives white Burgundy. A benchmark for what unadorned Chablis can be.
