Luciano Sandrone, Barolo Le Vigne, 1997

Sandrone's answer to the cru obsession: a blend, not a single site, and proudly so. Le Vigne is Luciano's homage to the old Langhe art of blending Nebbiolo from several vineyards, the traditional counterpoint to his single-cru Cannubi Boschis. The 1997 comes from a warm, ripe vintage that gave generous, flattering Baroli, and this bottle has had nearly three decades to integrate. It's a mature wine from a private collection, drinking in its savory tertiary stage, so decant and serve with care. Proof that in the right hands, the blend can challenge the cru.