Lucien Le Moine, Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint Jacques, 2005

Lucien Le Moine is the Beaune micro-negociant run by Mounir Saouma, who built a cult reputation not by farming but by mastering elevage, the art of raising wine in barrel. He buys already-fermented wines made by hand, then ages them in oak with a famously deft, hands-off touch that draws out perfume and depth. Lavaux Saint-Jacques is one of Gevrey-Chambertin's finest premier crus, and Saouma's restrained style lets its cool fruit and complex mid-palate sing rather than over-extracting it. This 2005, from a great Burgundy vintage, is mature and complex.