M. Chapoutier, Hermitage Blanc De L’Oree, 2012

One of Hermitage's reference whites, made entirely from Marsanne vines that are now well over 60 years old. Chapoutier draws De l'Oree from the Les Murets lieu-dit, where ancient fluvioglacial alluvium and biodynamic farming yield tiny crops of intensely concentrated fruit. Roughly half the wine ferments and ages in large 600-liter wooden barrels with regular lees stirring, the rest in tank, building texture without overt oak. The result is famously rich and ageworthy, a white with the unctuous depth of a great white Burgundy yet unmistakably Rhone. At 2012, this is a mature bottle hitting its stride; decant and serve it with proper food rather than as an aperitif.