Marcel Deiss, Alsace 1er Cru Engelgarten, 2024
Marcel Deiss does something almost no one else in Alsace dares: he co-plants and co-ferments multiple grapes in a single vineyard, letting the site speak instead of the grape. Engelgarten, a 1er Cru just outside Bergheim's medieval walls, interweaves Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Muscat on alluvial gravels mixed with clay and marl, all farmed biodynamically. The gravel drives the vines to real ripeness while a September water deficit keeps yields tiny and flavors concentrated. Whole-cluster pressed, fermented on wild yeast and aged a year in foudre, it is a dry, mineral, multidimensional white that tastes of place rather than variety. Decant it and give it food.
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Description
Marcel Deiss does something almost no one else in Alsace dares: he co-plants and co-ferments multiple grapes in a single vineyard, letting the site speak instead of the grape. Engelgarten, a 1er Cru just outside Bergheim's medieval walls, interweaves Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Muscat on alluvial gravels mixed with clay and marl, all farmed biodynamically. The gravel drives the vines to real ripeness while a September water deficit keeps yields tiny and flavors concentrated. Whole-cluster pressed, fermented on wild yeast and aged a year in foudre, it is a dry, mineral, multidimensional white that tastes of place rather than variety. Decant it and give it food.
