Massolino, Barolo Parafada, 2013

Massolino has been making serious traditional Barolo in Serralunga d'Alba since 1896, and brothers Franco and Roberto continue to draw some of the most quietly classical wines of the commune from their lineup of single crus. Parafada is a south-facing parcel of calcareous marl in Serralunga, and it tends to produce Barolo of dark fruit, deep minerality, and the firm, austere tannin profile that marks the village. The classical, properly structured 2013 vintage suits Parafada to a tee. Twelve years on, the wine is just stepping into its long drinking window, with another decade-plus of evolution ahead.