Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano, 2008

Montestefano is the muscular, structured grand cru of Barbaresco, often called the most Barolo-like of the village's crus, and this Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva is single-vineyard Nebbiolo that ranks among the great values in age-worthy wine, rewarding the cellar at 5, 10, 20, even 30 years. Where Asili charms, Montestefano flexes: deeper, more powerful, with serious tannic backbone. The 2008 was a classic, structured vintage producing traditional, fragrant, long-lived wines, and Montestefano from this year had the stuffing to age gracefully. At this point it's reaching a mature stretch where its power has mellowed into complexity, dried fruit, leather and earth over a still-firm frame. Drink now with a decant or hold a few more years.