Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Ovello, 2013

Ovello, on Barbaresco's clay-rich northern hills, gives one of Produttori del Barbaresco's firmest, earthiest, most structured crus, full-bodied with a savory, meaty streak. The 2013 is a classic, structured vintage, so that natural firmness arrives with bright acidity and tighter, more youthful tannins. It's impressive now with a long decant but clearly built for the cellar. Produttori bottles these Riservas only in vintages strong enough to age. For lovers of the more serious, earth-driven side of Barbaresco.