Serafin, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2005

A mature village Gevrey-Chambertin from Domaine Serafin, a Gevrey house with a reputation for some of the most concentrated, structured wines in the village, old vines, low yields, plenty of new oak and unfiltered bottling. Even at the village level, Serafin's wines are built like little fortresses, made to reward patience. This is a 2005, one of the greatest red Burgundy vintages of the era, and the wine has now had two decades to soften and deepen. It should be in a generous, savory window today; decant and enjoy.