Zind-Humbrecht, Riesling Brand Alsace Grand Cru, 1992 (375ml)

A mature half-bottle of Riesling from Brand, the warm granite Grand Cru above Turckheim whose name ("the burned slope") hints at the heat it traps. Granite gives Brand Riesling a firm, mineral backbone, and more than three decades in bottle have layered toast, petrol, and dried-citrus complexity over that frame. This is what patient cellaring does to great Riesling. From Zind-Humbrecht, the biodynamic benchmark estate of Olivier Humbrecht, France's first Master of Wine. A back-vintage gem in a convenient size.