Chateau Deyrem Valentin, Margaux, 2017

Chateau Deyrem Valentin is a family estate in Soussans, in the northern reaches of Margaux, where the Sorge family has farmed since 1928. It's one of those quiet overachievers that consistently punches above its appellation, vinified the old-fashioned way in cement vats and aged in a portion of new French oak. The 2017 is now a mature back-vintage Margaux, softened and resolved, showing the aromatic perfume and finely-grained structure the commune is famous for. A classic, fairly-priced Margaux drinking beautifully right now.