Enfield Wine Co., Syrah Haynes, 2014

Haynes Vineyard sits at the heart of Coombsville, the cool southeastern corner of Napa where San Pablo Bay air settles into the bowl and stretches out the growing season. Enfield's John Lockwood makes a Syrah here in a distinctly cool-climate, northern-Rhone-leaning style: peppery, savory, and structured rather than jammy. This is the 2014, from a warm, early California vintage that gave ripe, generous fruit while the site kept it fresh and spicy. Lockwood's hands-off approach lets the place speak. Decant and serve at cool room temperature.