Jean-Paul Thevenet, Morgon Vieilles Vignes, 2014 (1.5L)

Jean-Paul Thevenet is perhaps the most elusive member of Kermit Lynch's legendary Beaujolais "Gang of Four," and this old-vine Morgon is one of the region's quiet superstars. Farming organically and biodynamically, he harvests late for ripeness, ferments long and slow with traditional punch-downs, and ages in old Burgundy barrel. This is the 2014 in magnum, a back-vintage bottle from a private cellar, and the large format means it has aged slowly and gracefully. It is mature now, savory and earthy where it once was fruit-forward, and the magnum makes it a natural for a table full of people. Production is tiny and these are increasingly hard to find.