Josef Walter, Spatburgunder J Hundstruck, 2015

German Pinot Noir from an unexpected corner: Weingut Josef Walter farms in Burgstadt, in Franken, where the Hundsruck vineyard's weathered red sandstone gives Spatburgunder real spice and grip. The "J" is the estate's top single-vineyard bottling. At a decade old, the 2015 has settled into a savory, mature groove and is drinking well now. German Pinot rarely gets enough credit, and this is a great place to see what the country can do with the grape. Drink over the next few years.