Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain), Saumur-Champigny Franc de Pied, 2016

Thierry Germain has turned Roches Neuves into one of France's reference points for biodynamic winegrowing, and Franc de Pied is among his most distinctive wines: Cabernet Franc planted on its own ungrafted roots, without the usual American rootstock that has protected European vines since phylloxera. Working that way is risky and rare, but Germain believes it produces wines of deeper, more direct terroir expression. Farmed biodynamically in Saumur-Champigny and made with minimal intervention, this is the 2016, a classic, structured Loire vintage. Now mature and from a private collection, it's drinking with elegance and savory depth.