Didier Dagueneau, Pouilly Fume Buisson Renard, 2014
The Dagueneau cuvée with the best origin story. Buisson Renard sits mid-slope on the southwest side of Saint-Andelain — a parcel of clay and flint (silex), with a greater proportion of clay at the lower end of the slope, a distinct expression from the pure Silex cuvée — and it was originally called Buisson Menard until a French wine writer botched the name; Didier was so amused (or so the legend goes) that he kept the misprint. The wine itself is among the most concentrated, structured expressions of Sauvignon Blanc on earth — barrel-fermented and aged in mostly neutral 450- and 600-liter casks, built like a white Burgundy. 2014 was a classical Loire vintage, and eleven years on, this is in a beautiful window: citrus and stone fruit deepening into honey and lanolin, the famous Dagueneau cut intact. Sauvignon as serious wine.
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The Dagueneau cuvée with the best origin story. Buisson Renard sits mid-slope on the southwest side of Saint-Andelain — a parcel of clay and flint (silex), with a greater proportion of clay at the lower end of the slope, a distinct expression from the pure Silex cuvée — and it was originally called Buisson Menard until a French wine writer botched the name; Didier was so amused (or so the legend goes) that he kept the misprint. The wine itself is among the most concentrated, structured expressions of Sauvignon Blanc on earth — barrel-fermented and aged in mostly neutral 450- and 600-liter casks, built like a white Burgundy. 2014 was a classical Loire vintage, and eleven years on, this is in a beautiful window: citrus and stone fruit deepening into honey and lanolin, the famous Dagueneau cut intact. Sauvignon as serious wine.
