Fuligni, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 2010

2010 is the Brunello vintage collectors put away and forget about on purpose; fifteen years on, it is finally beginning to show what the fuss was about. Fuligni is one of Montalcino's most historic estates, anchored on higher-elevation ground in the cooler northeastern sector of the zone, where Maria Flora Fuligni has long held to a traditional path of long aging in large neutral Slavonian botti. The Riserva tier sees additional time in cask and bottle before release, and in a benchmark vintage like 2010 it produces Sangiovese of unusual depth and longevity. This bottle is just beginning its real drinking window and will continue to evolve gracefully through the decade.