Fine Disregard, Mataro Pato Vineyard, 2018

Mataro is the old California name for Mourvedre, and the Pato Vineyard grows it in pure, beach-like sand near the California Delta — from centenarian vines planted before Prohibition. Fine Disregard, the minimalist project of Mike Schieffelin and Kara Marden, works these ancient vines with native-yeast ferments and neutral vessels, letting the site's savory character lead. The sandy soils and old vines give a wine of real textural density and grip. Decant it and pair it with something off the grill.