Philip Togni, Ca' Togni Black Muscat, 1997
A genuine Napa curiosity: a sweet red dessert wine from Black Hamburg (a.k.a. Black Muscat), thought to be the only planting of the grape in the valley. Philip Togni farms it on a quarter-acre at his estate near the top of Spring Mountain, the same legendary site behind his ageworthy Cabernet. The wine is grapey and perfumed in the Muscat way but built on a dark, red-fruited frame, sweet without being cloying. A 1997 like this has had decades to deepen and turn savory at the edges. Pour it small, after dinner, with or instead of dessert.
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Description
A genuine Napa curiosity: a sweet red dessert wine from Black Hamburg (a.k.a. Black Muscat), thought to be the only planting of the grape in the valley. Philip Togni farms it on a quarter-acre at his estate near the top of Spring Mountain, the same legendary site behind his ageworthy Cabernet. The wine is grapey and perfumed in the Muscat way but built on a dark, red-fruited frame, sweet without being cloying. A 1997 like this has had decades to deepen and turn savory at the edges. Pour it small, after dinner, with or instead of dessert.
