Anne Boisson, Meursault Sous la Velle (scuffed labels), 2016

Anne Boisson is the sister of Pierre Boisson, both children of Bernard Boisson-Vadot, one of Meursault's most respected traditional growers. Anne now makes a tiny range of village and lieu-dit wines under her own label, working in the classical, restrained style the family is known for. Sous la Velle is a village-level parcel just above Meursault, the kind of site that quietly produces some of the most precise wines in the appellation. The 2016 vintage was a brutal one in Burgundy, with frost and mildew slashing yields, but the surviving fruit produced focused, transparent whites. Nine years on, this bottle is entering its prime: still vibrant, no longer young, with the layered complexity that only a few years of cellar can bring.