Domaine Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Rouge Morgeot, 2009

Ramonet is a name shouted across auction rooms for the domaine's Montrachet and Batard. Quietly, in much smaller volumes, the family also makes red Burgundy from Chassagne's premier crus, and Morgeot, the largest and most red-friendly of those climats, is the one to know. The 2009 was made under Noël and Jean-Claude Ramonet, the third generation, and it carries the imprint of a generous, warm vintage in Burgundy: ripe fruit, ample flesh, supple tannins. At sixteen years it has shed any baby fat and now sits in full maturity, drinking at peak. A chance to taste the red side of a legendary white-wine house, from a parcel that has always taken Pinot Noir seriously, in a year built for current pleasure.